Old City Jerusalem

We began our field study today in the old city of Jerusalem. We first started directly behind our University. I found that within a stone throwing distance I could find an Anglican cemetery, Catholic tower, and a Muslim minaret (signifying a Mosque); three belief systems all upon the same land. We walked a little further to a place thought of as the Room of the Last Supper. “What are the symbols in this room telling you this is not the room of the last supper?” Dr. Wright asks.
The signs were obvious; stained glass, Arabic writing, tall Crusader arches, and a Mydrab (part of a Mosque that faces Mecca). I was confused. Dr. Wright explained that it was a Tel (Layers of cities). What we stood on today was simply a Tel. At various times it had been deemed as a Holy place by various religions- Muslims, Crusaders, Protestants. We also learned that Land was not made official until a church of some sort or a cemetery was built on it. One could never reclaim land where ancestors were buried.

We then spoke about the differences between History and Tradition. History, we would say is something that has happened. However, when it comes down to it, the story that we believe about history is simply that- a story, otherwise known as tradition. History can never simply stand alone. There is always a point of view and perspective that go with it. Therefore, it is safer and more accurate to call what westerners would call “History”- Tradition instead. The Tradition is rich in this place. Who we are inside is defined strongly by who our fathers are and who their fathers were. Tradition has been passed down from generation to generation.

Alright, back to the room of the Last Supper. 1st Century archeologists support that this was a Christian home church at one point. It was known as the “Mother of Zion,” or Dormition Abbey as well. They say this is where Mary went to sleep (died). I was confused that the same place could be named for many things; The last supper, where Mary died, a mosque was there to honor Esau (Jesus), and David’s tomb is here. This Holy ground has been declared holy by Jews, Muslims, and Christians- all in the same place! They are all fighting over who has ownership of it as well. How does that work?

Next on our list was the Jewish Quarters. We stood in a large hole that had been preserved by a famous archeologist. It revealed the Cardio (Main Street) of the early Jewish Quarter before it had been destroyed. The Jews were exiled in 1948 out the Zion gate on Shabbat. Then the Jordanians blew up the Jewish quarter. In 1967 the Israelis regained their land back and rebuilt it with an old flare, but it was really new. In Israel, it is custom that before anybody build anything on the land, archeologists have to dig. If they find anything (Jewish, Muslim, Christian, etc.) it is saved in its original form. This is why we were able to stand on the Cardio today, which had once been a road in the first century.

As we rounded a corner of the city a bright golden roof caught my eye. This was the Dome of the Rock, owned by the Muslims and referred to as the place where Mohammed left his foot print before ascending to Heaven. The Dome of the Rock is the highest place where the Tabernacle (Holy of Holies) was probably held. No wonder the Muslims want to hold onto it and guard it. NO excavation has ever been allowed. During the Uprising or “Antifada” of 1987 Arabs rose up against Israel by throwing stones over the wall and shooting rubber bullets where Jews were praying. Israel fought back and won. From then on, nobody who was of stone throwing age was allowed to leave the West Bank (controlled by Palestinians) to go worship at the Mosque. The Muslims rebelled and said that nobody, unless Muslim was ever again allowed into the Dome of the Rock. We can enter the outside quarters, but that is it.

Last on the agenda today was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This has been known as the spot for the death, burial, and resurrection site of Jesus. It contains all of the geographical qualifications to support this as well. There are six major Orthodox religions that own various pieces of this place (Greek, Armenian, Latin, Coptic, Syrian, and Ethiopian. Each has various times of the day where they can hold a service there and have access to the other churches’ property. The actual place is owned by the Muslims! This was due to the fact that there was a huge disagreement in 1757 that ended up where the third party (Muslims) took the keys to create peace!
Inside the Suplachre we walked to a first century tomb. Tombs were carved out in the rock. In the inside of the cave there are slits cut out into the wall where the bodies would lay. The hole in the wall is then sealed with another rock that rolls in front. Then there could be a second rock that actually seals the tomb because there could be several places for bodies to lie upon. After a year the family members come back and put their family member’s bones into an ossuary or a bone box. During the Iron Age, before the first century, tombs were made in a U shape where bodies were laid on a rock slab and once the bodies decayed, the bones would fall into the middle and join up with the rest of their family!

Last but not least, I had a Western idea smashed today and loved it! The idea that Jesus was hoisted up high on a cross is very unlikely. The whole point of crucifixion was to humiliate whoever was being punished. Therefore he would have been just high enough so his feet would not touch the ground. People could spit on him, birds could pluck out his eyes, dogs could eat his flesh and so on. We in America always put Jesus with a loin cloth on as well- this is not true. He would have been totally naked on that low cross.

Being here is intense. I really love it. I have attended one class in the field and could not stop being amazed at the intriguing mystery behind various traditions. I look forward to uncovering more of my tradition and the one of my ancestors.